Regenerative farming: the adventure in revolutionising food systems

This article was originally published by Adventure Uncovered here.


Regenerative farming presents a model of food production rooted in community engagement, sustainability and healthy ecosystems. Bex Tyers makes its case from Plotgate Farm in Somerset. 

In a quiet village in rural Somerset there is a winding dirt track that leads seemingly nowhere. Past the gentle hubbub of village life and the fields with rows of hay bales piled high, the track bends around to the right. If you walk onwards, with tall wildgrass and wildflowers on either side, you’ll arrive at a farm gate. 

Beyond this gate is Plotgate Community Farm - a ten-acre regenerative farm growing and producing chemical-free vegetables and meat for the local community in this small corner of southwest England. Plotgate is a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) project. This means that when someone becomes a farm cooperative member, they not only get a weekly veg box, but also have the power to vote on the direction of the farm and play an active role in decision-making. Members can also volunteer at the farm alongside the three main growers and four farming apprentices. This model of farming offers local people direct access to the food that they consume while also allowing them to directly support their local farmers. 

Earlier this year I left London and moved off-grid to come and work and learn on this farm. While working as a writer in the food industry, I had become increasingly aware of the need for change within our food systems. I wanted to be a part of that change and, after volunteering on community farms and delving deeper into the issues, I decided to give up my job and take up a seasonal farm apprenticeship this year. Since being here I have come to further understand the desperate need for small-scale, regenerative farmers and the importance of the food that they grow and produce. Today, just eight companies control 80% of the UK’s food supply. Such imbalances of power are leading to more people wanting to grow more local, regenerative food for their communities in the UK. While we may not climb mountains each day, I would argue that our work is an adventurous pursuit that needs far greater recognition.

'Today, just eight companies control 80% of the UK’s food supply. Such imbalances of power are leading to more people wanting to grow more local, regenerative food for their communities in the UK.'

One of the greatest challenges we are all facing as an international community is our warming planet. Industrial farming is not a sustainable model in the face of climate change. It consumes resources without replenishing them: it depletes our soil, leaches chemicals into our water and food systems, and can have devastating impacts on wildlife. Farming chemicals called pesticides are sprayed on food to kill weeds. Glyphosate is the most common chemical sprayed on farms across the globe. However, in 2015 it was classified as "probably carcinogenic to humans" by the International Agency for Research on Cancer, and later studies found that it could ‘adversely affect the biology of mammals.’ Despite this, Glyphosate is still heavily used in non-organic farming and continues to deplete our soil. Soil is one of the most important natural resources on the planet - without healthy soil we won’t be able to grow food to sustain ourselves. It can take between 100 and 1,000 years for soil to develop, and it is extremely vulnerable to degradation.

In contrast, regenerative farming aims to regenerate depleted soil, increase biodiversity, enhance ecosystems, and build resilience to climate instability - as well as provide chemical-free, nutritious food for local communities. The Rodale Institute pioneered organic and regenerative farming methods in the U.S. - they have been doing a Farming Systems Trial for over 30 years that measures organic versus industrial agriculture to see what is a more sustainable, beneficial model. They have found that organic farming outperforms in yields, builds soil health, uses 45% less energy, and produces 40% less greenhouse gas. This type of farming differs greatly from larger, industrial farming: it is community-focused, uses very little machinery, and seeks to work with nature. Whereas industrial farming has put a great distance between the producer and the consumer, community farms offer people a way to take an active role in growing their own food through volunteering. They also offer people a space to connect with others, be outdoors and have been shown to aid in better mental and physical health. Not only feeding people in an honest, transparent way, regenerative farming also ensures that our food systems have a resilient, sustainable future in the face of climate change.

'Whereas industrial farming has put a great distance between the producer and the consumer, community farms offer people a way to take an active role in growing their own food through volunteering.'

Great adventurers respond to mighty challenges, and for farmers climate change is the greatest of them all. Working in partnership with nature to successfully grow food means that you are at the behest of nature’s rhythms. You are constantly adapting to the needs and intricate balance of weather, soil, water, plants, and wildlife. According to the Met Office, “April [2021] saw just 28% (20.1mm) of the average rainfall for the UK, putting it as the fourth driest on record, while May’s downpours [saw] the fourth wettest May ever recorded for the UK.” These fluctuating weather patterns are making farming increasingly challenging. While it would be far easier for many farmers to ignore this challenge, and push onwards using more chemicals and fossil-fuel-powered machinery, there are those that are offering alternatives. 

Regenerative farming is not only a model that works on a small scale - various studies have shown that it is scalable and could offer an alternative to ‘feed the world’ sustainably. However, if we want to create a more sustainable food system, we need to think differently about how we consume and produce food. As stated in a paper from the Research Institute of Organic Agriculture, “given the state of our earth we can no longer afford to discuss questions like ‘can organic feed the world?’ When, if anything, we should be asking why the industrial model of agriculture is not feeding the world. Instead, we should be highlighting what works, namely food systems that provide sufficient and nutritious food for all, minimise environmental impacts, and enable producers to earn a decent living.” Growing and raising food regeneratively is pushing the limits of what many believe is achievable. It is directly challenging an industrial model that shows little care for biodiversity and transparency within our food system. As consumers with an appreciation for the outdoors, we need to support those that are growing food that supports natural ecosystems. 

'Growing and raising food regeneratively is pushing the limits of what many believe is achievable. It is directly challenging an industrial model that shows little care for biodiversity and transparency within our food system. As consumers with an appreciation for the outdoors, we need to support those that are growing food that supports natural ecosystems.'

Many of our greatest role models challenge the status quo and offer us positive examples of how we can make change. Regenerative farmers are doing just that. They are actively connecting with natural systems to ensure that our food has a positive impact, using their bodies and minds to produce food in a more natural way and creating a model in which communities are connected and empowered, rather than further separated from each other and their food.  We can all partake in the adventure of living more regeneratively. We can work to encourage more biodiversity in our gardens, grow our own food without chemicals and support farmers that are working to ensure that we have transparent, sustainable food systems for the future. 

So, when I see a new bird species making a home in our wildlife pond, or I reach my hands into the healthy soil beneath my feet, I am reminded of why this work matters. I may be one farmer in rural Somerset, but I am part of a movement that is creating lasting change that will reach far beyond just my own community. That is an adventure worth pursuing.

The organic farm without the label

This article was originally published by The Food Assembly, UK.


Writer, Bex Tyers, discovers a farm with no tractors that grows exotic vegetables and doesn’t need a label to prove it’s organic.

“Yeah, we’re kind of weird,” says Joris Gunawardena, the head of production at Sutton Community Farm. As we tour the 7.1-acre site, we pass rows of salad, pak choi, and 4-year-old artichoke plants. Apparently, anyone can grow this tasty Mediterranean veg in a British garden but you have to know what you’re doing.

They certainly seem to know what they’re doing at Sutton Community Farm, and most of the produce they harvest goes to London restaurants like Hix Soho, Oxo Tower, and Brown’s Hotel. Yet this community farm is a far cry from London’s fine diners. While London’s hazy skyline can still be seen from the farm, an hour-long journey out of the city feels less like a short bus ride away from West Croydon and more like a village in Somerset or Kent.

Like many other farms in the UK, it has a strong belief in organic methods and ticks all of the boxes to be a certified organic farm, but has decided not to go through the organic certification process. The farm is focused on transparency instead. While having the certification is something that they’ve thought about doing in the future, it isn’t something they have chosen to invest in just yet.

Joris explains that they encourage people to come and inspect the farm, ask questions, and experience the methods they use to grow their food. If you are organic certified, he explains, you get a yearly inspection.

“We want people to engage with us to understand what organic is for themselves and to not just rely on the certification process,” Joris explains.

“But we’re open 51 weeks a year and have 30-50 people a week who come and take part in the farming process. While we believe that certification is a very valuable statement for doing the right thing, the further away from your customer you are, the more you need the certification. The people that come here and those that buy our food trust in the work that we do, they are enthused by what we’re doing.”

The farm uses no tractors or machinery to plant or weed their crops; it’s all done by hand or using a weed-controlling fabric called Mypex that can be reused for up to 8 years. Other farms use machinery and tilling, but Joris tells me that it can damage the soil. Volunteers can come here and essentially get involved in every aspect of the growing, weeding, sowing, and harvesting of the produce.

Before growing food for the farm Joris worked as a chef. While he still maintains his love for cooking, the fast-paced restaurant world highlighted this disconnect with the slower pace of growing food organically.

“I was never going to be able to deal with a broader world through being a chef. It’s a very ephemeral thing; you cook the food, which takes 12 hours max, but it’s eaten in 20 minutes, and then 4 hours later they’re hungry again. I wanted to address how we relate to food and the environment, and social issues to do with people.”

The lack of an organic label doesn’t seem to bother the restaurants that Sutton Community Farm supplies.

As Joris tells me, “Restaurants are a bit scared of organic because of the price, but what they don’t fear is quality. If you show them a product that’s good, it doesn’t matter if it’s certified or not, they taste and see it and it works, and then the certification doesn’t matter so much.”

Many small farmers in the UK are not able to afford organic certification, and it can be complicated for some. Some farmers in the UK have dropped their organic certification labelling due to this and have opted to just call themselves ‘natural’.

Joris goes on to comment, “It is hard to get access to truly fresh and local food. 99% of food is going through a system that is days or weeks away from the crop. Whereas here we’re talking in hours, 24 hours on a bad day!”

Wave-riding, solar-powered, fairly farmed chocolate

This piece was written in November 2020 to tell the story behind Fortnum & Mason’s 99% emission-free Sailboat chocolate.

Words: Bex Tyers
Originally published here.


Produced in the Caribbean by the world's first 'Farm to Store' craft chocolate makers, our new naturally grown and certified organic Sailboat Chocolate is 99% emission-free. And as the name may suggest, it has been on quite the journey to reach us in Piccadilly...

At Fortnum’s, we are working hard to do more things more often to create long-lasting, sustainable change. Shipping is a major polluter – responsible for around 2.5% of global carbon emissions – which is why we set out to transport this remarkable chocolate all the way from the Caribbean to Piccadilly using as few emissions as possible. That meant by sailboat, electric van and even as a passenger on a horse and cart too.

You may be wondering why it’s not 100% emission free? By law, ships need to carry marine diesel petrol in the event of an emergency, which is why we cannot call this 100% emission free chocolate – but read on to discover the twists and turns in the glorious journey our Sailboat Chocolate has made across sea and land to arrive safely in Piccadilly using nearly zero emissions.

The journey of our Sailboat Chocolate slates starts on the Caribbean island of Grenada, where a small co-operative of organic cocoa farmers is transforming the cocoa-chocolate system one bean at a time. The Grenada Chocolate Company is an Organic Cocoa Farmers’ and Chocolate-Makers’ Cooperative with a radical new business model that resulted in the first “Tree to Bar” chocolate this century, adding all the value to the local economy in the village of Hermitage, St Patrick's. Each farmer is a shareholder in the company and is paid above the standard rate, with their factory workers being paid double the going rate for equivalent jobs.

On unique volcanic terroir in lush, managed rainforest, the chocolate was produced where the Trinitario cocoa beans grow, allowing the Co-operative to do its own fermenting and create incredible complex flavour profiles.

 The beans are then processed in a solar-powered factory. While cocoa beans are normally shipped across the world to be made into a bar, Grenada Chocolate Company use zero emissions to craft their chocolate and beans that are fresh, rather than months or even years old. 

Once 350kg of chocolate, in 25kg blocks, had been made by Grenada Chocolate Company it began its first stint on the wide-open sea on an engineless sailing boat called Tres Hombres. Manned by FairTransport, the chocolate sailed from Grenada to Den Helder in the Netherlands, but its days at sea were not over yet. Once it had reached Den Helder it began its second voyage on T/S Britta, with Silvery Light Sailing, to Carlingford Lough in Ireland.

Now that the chocolate was safely in Ireland it began its journey to NearyNógs on the Mourne Coast – one of the oldest chocolate makers in Ireland. A passionate team of volunteers heeded our call and transported the chocolate to Killoween, on the Mourne Mountains shoreline, using traditional Drontheim rowing boats. 

A passionate team of volunteers brought the chocolate to the shoreline using traditional Drontheim rowing boats 

From the shoreline, it began a bumpy ride on horse and cart across 5.9 miles to NearyNógs. As Ireland’s first bean to bar chocolate makers, NearyNógs Stoneground Chocolate Makers craft exceptional confectionery in their solar-powered factory overlooking the Irish Sea. Our Sail Boat Chocolate was broken down into slates, tempered and packaged in recyclable, biodegradable packaging before the final leg of its adventure to Piccadilly.

It began its return journey, en route to our Chocolate Wonderland, by horse and cart on its way to Rostrevor. It was then transported from the Mourne Mountains shoreline, once again, by volunteers in Drontheim rowing boats headed in the direction of Carlingford Lough. Here it was met by a beautiful sailing boat, Klevia, whose white sails powered the chocolate by wind to Port Penrhyn, in Bangor, North Wales.

As the final leg of this sustainable journey was entirely on land, we sought our very own Fortnum & Mason electric vans to deliver our exquisite Sailboat Chocolate home to Piccadilly.

Now, you can play your part in this exciting story by visiting us in Piccadilly and trying it for yourself. Once you do, we're sure you'll agree that it is every bit worth the journey – thanks to the fine flavour Trinitario cocoa with ascending levels of cocoa solids, each one with different tasting notes too.

Whether as a unique gift for a friend or as a treat for yourself, this is chocolate like no other. You might call it chocolate on a mission. 


Ditching certain plastics doesn't mean a company still isn't greenwashing

This article was originally published by Huffington Post UK. It has since been edited and updated.


I recently ended a short stint working in retail. As a consumer, I used to buy more than 50% of my clothes from this brand. I loved the fabrics, the way the clothes fit my shape and, how they were designed in the UK. But I never really stopped to think much about their business practices. Why would I? I want to enjoy shopping for clothes that make me feel good. And besides, they used paper bags instead of plastic and their brand message matched the lifestyle I aspired to live. Beyond money or management issues, what niggled at me during my time working in retail was not to do with co-workers or rude customers, it was to do with plastic.

On Thursday and Friday mornings I would often find myself in the stock room upstairs unpacking large delivery bags filled with clothing. This task could take up to a few hours to finish because each piece of clothing was individually wrapped in plastic. Waste in companies is not just limited to food. I have seen many an initiative lately around ditching plastic straws and cutlery, but there is far less being said about fashion companies who use large amounts of non-biodegradable materials to protect their clothing during transportation.

As an environmentally conscious individual working in retail, I found it interesting to watch the behaviour of consumers as awareness around plastic waste rose in the last few years. I saw customers praising us for not using plastic bags, while I knew full well that we had probably filled about three bin bags full of plastic waste that morning.

How can we really know whether the companies we buy are making real, sustainable change or whether they are simply riding the latest conscious wave while continuing to harm the planet?

The term ‘greenwashing’ came about in the 1980s to describe the behaviour of corporations who attempted to portray themselves as environmentally responsible. CorpWatch, a U.S. based non-profit that keeps tabs on the social responsibility of U.S. companies, explained that greenwashing is when a company attempts “to preserve and expand their markets or power by posing as friends of the environment”. There are countless examples of companies that are banking on environmentalism; who suggest that they have the environment at the heart of their values after making one small environmental move, yet a deeper look at their business practices shows that 90% of their moves are environmentally destructive. It can be hard as a consumer, and tiresome, to decipher whether a company is in fact legitimately sustainable and cares about the environment or not.

It has been six years since the Paris Climate Agreement was first signed by many of our world leaders, and in 2022 we are still in a position to make changes that could stop serious long-term disasters caused by our environmental failures. The fact is that we, as consumers, have more power than we are led to believe. We need to shine a bright light on greenwashing and make it impossible for companies to fool us into believing that they care. Because if we let them greenwash us, we will continue to live in over-polluted cities, continue to give our well-earned money to companies that do not respect our personal values and, continue to be a force of destruction to the beautiful habitats the world over, that we are already losing at a startling pace.


Words: Rebecca Tyers
Originally published here.

When it comes to plastic waste, we need to think bigger

In September I spent a few weeks in Asia. From the limestone caves of Northern Vietnam to the intense rainy season in Southern Thailand, Asia is a beautiful continent. However, one thing that I noticed as I travelled through South East Asia was the amount of rubbish. I was intrigued to understand more about the state of waste in Asia and continuously found one major issue staring me in the face: plastic. Surprisingly, Indonesia, the Philippines, and Vietnam are three of the world’s worst polluters of plastic to the world’s oceans. While we in the West can easily ignore the impact our choices have on a grander scale, many communities living in third-world countries have to battle with the harsh realities of plastic waste every single day right on their doorstep.

In West Java, Indonesia there is a river called the Citarum. This river has been labelled ‘the most polluted in the world’, and was recently featured on Liz Bonnin’s BBC Documentary Drowning in Plastic. In the last 20 years, this river has lost 60% of its fish species, leading many of the local fishermen to instead resort to collecting plastic waste to sell to plastic factories instead of selling fish. It has been reported that China and Indonesia contribute the greatest amount of plastic waste into our oceans and while it may seem like the most we can do as UK citizens is to focus on our own efforts at home, we must not stop there.

The annual amount of plastic waste in the UK is estimated to be around 5 million tonnes. In early 2018 plastic waste exports to China - the country with the highest plastic pollution in the world - were banned. Since the ban, the UK has reportedly been exporting plastic for recycling to countries such as Malaysia and Vietnam. However, it has recently been reported that much of the plastic waste sent to be recycled is ending up in landfill in third-world countries. Indonesia, Vietnam, and Malaysia are three countries that receive plastic waste exports from the UK; these three countries are also three of the top eight highest countries in the world for plastic pollution.

Sadly, while we all attempt to be green citizens and recycle, we have little understanding of where that waste may end up. We are all connected; we may recycle a bottle in Central London and it may end up in a landfill in a village in Vietnam. The world in 2018 is a global world and we are all responsible for the current state of it. We need to think beyond our own homes and beyond our own borders if we are going to tackle this international crisis. A number of countries in Asia may be topping the list of plastic waste offenders, but this is not entirely due to their own actions.

As the West has developed a throw-away, single-use approach to plastic, our ability to deal with this waste has followed suit. However, many third-world countries are not able to keep up with their growing consumer classes who are living lavish Western lifestyles in countries that don’t have the resources to deal with their waste. As seen with Indonesia’s Citarum River, when communities don’t have the support they need to responsibly process their waste, they have little choice but to dispose of it in the only way they can - by dumping it in the river. In countries where governmental support for waste management is lacking, there has been a tendency to leave locals to sort it out on their own. Not only is this hugely unsustainable, but it is also at the cost not only of local people and their communities but at the cost of natural ecosystems, wildlife, and the international community as a whole.

While we go about our daily lives, switching over to reusable products and recycling are effective steps we can take to make small changes every day. Yet, on a wider scale, we need to be thinking bigger. If we’re serious about making a radical change to our throw-away, single-use society, we need to be holding people to account and putting plastic at the forefront of our world leaders’ agendas. This is an issue that affects us as a global community, and we need to come together internationally for real change to become a reality. We need to be urging our world leaders to put plastic waste pollution and the health of our oceans high on their list of priorities; we need to push for an international agreement around plastic waste equivalent to the Paris Climate Accord.

Education is key, and in our fight against plastic pollution, we can educate others and ourselves about the real issues happening in communities around the world. Beyond all this, there are so many innovative technologies and ideas being invented every day to replace plastic, collect plastic waste in our oceans, and support marine life. Now more than ever, we need to be supporting these innovators and urging our leaders to support them too. We have the power to change our story with plastic, but we need to go beyond our homes, and ourselves and work as an international community to do so.


Words: Bex Tyers
Originally published here.

Why women shouldn't be afraid to be strong and get dirty

On the morning of my 24th birthday, I put on a pair of old walking boots. They were the sturdy kind, the right level of ugly, and perfectly durable. I had worn them every week throughout the summer; it had become a kind of ritual. I would wake up early and catch a train going south, while the rest of the house lay silent, the sun slowly rising over London in milky hues.

There are few things that could inspire me out of my slumber and into a day most likely spent on my hands and knees, ripping weeds from the corners of a polytunnel, surrounded by frogs and spiders. I have always had an adventurous spirit, a desire for open spaces and moss-filled forests, yet I never saw myself wanting to become a farmer.

I can remember the first time I fell in love, and it wasn’t with a human being. It was early September, the sky was in the grip of a mood swing; the deep purple clouds hung low while the sun clung to their edges. I walked along a path that took me to where the squash had been growing all summer long, an array of shapes and textures. I began picking them, only able to carry two or three at once. Searching beneath the plant’s leaves to find squash of varying shapes, sizes, and colours; the satisfying action of pulling them from their stems, watching the wheelbarrows fill up and up and up.

I felt strong. My tanned legs squatted to collect each squash, unperturbed by the scratches that they would receive, as I grazed the spiky edges of courgette leaves along the way. I felt alive, not because of the imminent rain or my rising heart rate, but because I felt empowered as a woman. No longer believing that I wasn’t strong enough, that the dirt beneath my fingernails signified anything but the work I had achieved. I had fallen in love with this feeling, this action of growing food and the empowerment it offered me. No longer believing that being a farmer had anything to do with my gender.

When I was a child I was not aware that growing food could be a career choice, or that female farmers even existed. My mother was the only example I had of a woman who was unafraid of getting dirty, and who never questioned her own strength. I saw women on TV with slender figures in tight dresses, standing back as their men spoke for them. Any woman I saw growing food in the media was wearing a sun hat and doing the ‘light jobs’. No one ever seemed to question the fact that farming was seen as a ‘man’s role’, too hard and heavy for a woman.

Thankfully, for women growing up in 2018 strong female role models are in no short supply. Women who aren’t afraid to get their hands dirty, who are marching out onto centre stage and offering no apology for being strong and sweating over what they love. Farming taught me how to be one of those women, to take ownership of the space I take up in this world and the dreams I have to change it.

As women from all walks of life claim the equal space in society that we have been owed for centuries, it is time for us, both men and women, to let go of old ideals. We can be dirty, we can be strong, we can get stuck in and pull our weight. We do not need permission to take up space in hobbies or professions that we feel passionate about. There is no job that is only fit for a man, a truth that many women are proving time and time again.


Words: Bex Tyers
Originally published here.

Meet the winemaker: Fortnum's bacchus wine

This interview was conducted to promote Fortnum & Mason Bacchus Wine.

Interview Qs and editing: Bex Tyers
Originally published here.


Ask a wine aficionado to name a country that produces the best still wine, and England might not be the first place that comes to mind. However, our new Bacchus wine is testament to England’s ability to produce exceptional wine of its own.

Originally grown in Germany, the Bacchus grape does not ripen so well in warmer weather, making it a great match for England's unpredictable climate. Currently bringing a buzz to the wine world, the Bacchus grape thrives in our cooler temperatures, and has been touted as our country’s answer to Sauvignon Blanc. The Fortnum’s Bacchus is a fine example, and Laneberg Winery source the best possible Bacchus fruit from a single vineyard in Leicestershire.

After our experts blind tasted 40 different wines in search of our next bottle, it was the distinctly English character of the Bacchus grape that really stood out. The grapes are basket-pressed to fully capture the aromas and flavours of an English country garden, with notes of crisp apple, garden herbs and elderflower.

To celebrate the launch of what promises to be a new signature English wine, and a marvellous addition to Fortnum’s large and varied wine department, we spoke to Elise Lane, Laneberg’s CEO and Head Winemaker. While winemaking has traditionally been a male environment, Elise is one of a new generation of pioneering women running their own wineries and crafting exceptional wines – their award-winning Bacchus being one such superb bottle. We sat down with Elise to hear more about her journey into winemaking and what makes our Bacchus so special.

How did you know you wanted to be a winemaker?

'I did a Master’s in Chemistry at Oxford and graduated in 2003. I didn’t know what I wanted to do with that degree. I ended up in finance and moved to London. I did a few wine tasting courses and got WSET (Wine and Spirit Education Trust) Level 2 and Level 3, and there was a part at the end of Level 3 about winemaking. I realised how much winemaking related to chemistry and became very interested in it.

When we visited an urban winery in West Brompton, in London, I realised that you could make wine without growing the grapes yourself, which later led to us starting our own urban winery here, in the North East of England.'

What interested you about winemaking?

'While I am interested in the growing side of wine, It’s definitely the winemaking side of it that’s my passion. If you took blueberries and made wine out of them, all of the wine would taste more or less the same – no matter what blueberries you took or where you grew them. Whereas we have so many different varieties of grape that lead to different tasting wine. While all white grapes may generally look the same, they can create such different flavours. There’s also so much you can do with your winemaking to enhance those flavours.'


Why did you want to make Bacchus wine?

'I trained in viticulture at Plumpton College and I worked in their winery. It was a great place to work as you have a number of students working with you, so you’re teaching others as you’re learning yourself. I remember making Bacchus wine there and thinking that if we could get this wine right it could really play into the Sauvignon Blanc market - which is big in the UK.

Most English wineries focus on traditionally made sparkling wines, but for us that wouldn’t have been financially viable as they are more expensive to make due to their popularity, and take longer due to the ageing methods and the double fermentation. So our initial plan was to make some lovely still wines, of which Bacchus was one. We chose Bacchus because we wanted to make premium quality white wine in England. In 2018, when we were just starting, I bought 3 tonnes of Bacchus, as well as some Pinot Grigio and Rosé, and our first 2018 Bacchus won us medals at the International Wine & Spirits Competition and the Wine GB awards.'

With distinctive elderflower notes, Bacchus has a grassy, herbaceous character, that can be enjoyed on its own or with a range of food pairings. In riper years, it has aromas of tropical fruit flavours. Pair with Fortnum’s Organic Smoked Salmon, poultry, salad and grilled fish.

What is the ‘Basket Pressed’ method of winemaking that you use to make Bacchus?

‘A basket press is traditionally used to make champagne – they put whole grapes in and gently press them to make sparkling wines – but it is quite rare in this country to use a basket press to make Bacchus. The grapes are put into the top of a large circular press and the juice flows out through small slits in the side. Once the juice has drained out, the press is used to push even more juice out. The flavour of the grape is in the skin, so the more you press, the more skin characteristic you’ll get in the wine.

For lighter-bodied wines, you wouldn’t want to basket press them, as you’ll end up with harsher flavours and astringency that you don’t want. Since Bacchus is an aromatic grape variety, if you’re able to let the juice flow from the skins for longer it can pick up more of those skin characteristics in the flavour, which is why we use the Basket Press method. That’s why the Bacchus has strong notes of elderflower, peach, stone fruit and sometimes more tropical flavours.'

'Our first 2018 Bacchus won us medals at the International Wine & Spirits Competition and the Wine GB award'


Why is Bacchus so popular in the UK?

'Bacchus is similar in style to Sauvignon Blanc, making it familiar. It is a low-acid grape variety – it has around 6 grams per litre of total acidity, whereas our Pinot Grigio has 10, and Riesling is more around 17 – making it a more versatile, easy-to-drink wine.

While there’s things you can do with winemaking to change the level of acidity in your grapes, I would much rather have a grape that is suited to the climate so that you don’t need to intervene too much. Bacchus is also better if there’s been a cooler year – which makes it a great grape variety for the UK. In 2019 it rained all summer, but the Bacchus still came in beautifully and the flavour is consistent year on year, despite weather changes.'

What makes Fortnum's Bacchus stand out?

'The balance of the acidity, residual sugar and the fruit flavours that come through. I aim to bring out the fruitiness, with a lot of elderflower on the nose. I think that it’s accessible as a style of wine, it can be a food wine but it can also be enjoyed on its own too. It’s very easy to drink and the delicious notes that you first smell will always come through when you drink it.'

Do young people care about farming?

This article was originally published on the Wicked Leeks blog here.


It’s August and the land around me is a chlorophyll-hungry yellow. Our seeds are struggling to germinate and many of our young winter cabbage plants have already died in the unrelenting heat. As I’m sure many reading this will agree, I believe that regenerative farming is part of the solution to mitigating climate change. However, there is the looming question of who will carry UK food production forward into an uncertain future; is farming a desirable career for younger generations?

In 2020, I left a full-time job in London to work in farming at the age of 26. I don’t come from a farming background and didn’t grow up in the rural countryside. After volunteering on food growing projects around London since 2016, I left the city during the pandemic to pursue my passion for food growing and completed an agroecological farming traineeship with The Landworkers’ Alliance in 2021.

I love this work – there are few experiences quite like bringing in the hay at sunset, seeing lambs being born or growing food on biodiverse land alongside others that understand the importance. Over the last two years I’ve seen a growing movement emerging of people who want to work in farming, and many of them are between the ages of 20 and 40.

The idea that most young people want city jobs and bags of cash isn’t true – many of us want simpler livelihoods where we can connect to nature and play an active role in reshaping the future of food and its impact.

However, there are still socioeconomic barriers that make a career in farming inaccessible for many. Additionally, until we have land of our own many of us rely on seasonal work that usually dries up in the winter because many farms can’t afford to pay us (or themselves) a proper income.

Getting access to even small parcels of land in the UK is difficult, and making a liveable income from food growing in a world where cheap food is seen as the norm makes it hard for all farmers, but especially for new entrants.

It is not due to a fear of hard work that young people are struggling to get into or continue farming, it’s these systematic issues and a broken food system that has not served farmers well for some time.

Despite this, a growing number of people under the age of 55 (the average age of UK farmers) want to help create a food system that reflects our values and want to work on farms that align with them, too.

However, while experienced farmers want workers and new entrant farmers want work, there is sometimes still a disconnect between these two groups – we need to work together to close this generational gap. Across all areas of agroecological farming in the UK, we need to focus more on what unites us than what separates us – if we are to make farming a more inclusive, appealing sector for future generations then we need to collaborate better to do so.

Through more interaction, knowledge sharing, and support we can understand one another better and lessen the loneliness that plagues many farmers. From large family farms to newly established one-acre market gardens, we are all connected through our passion to create a prosperous future for both people and the planet through food. System change can often be a long and hard road but working together will only get us there faster.

Get into farming

Jobs are often posted on The Landworkers’ Alliance and Organic Grower’s Alliance website, The Soil Association Marketplace and Roots to Work.

Useful resources can be found through The Landworkers’ Alliance, Ecological Land Co-operative, The CSA Network, The Organic Growers’ Alliance and similar organisations – please feel free to add any projects or organisations that might connect us all better in the comments below.